Friday, July 6, 2012

Final Trek Home, Arriving June 30, 2012

Our final trek home started when we left Cody, WY, on June 25th - gearing up for another marathon drive across the country ... this time, heading east. The mid-western states couldn't have been more different from the fabulous mountainous regions to which we had become accustomed!  Through Nebraska, Iowa and Missouri we traveled; and all we saw was acres and acres of flat, flat farmland filled with crops.  I haven't seen this much flat land since the last time I was in New Jersey!

As we buzzed east through Missouri, I was able to grab this shot of the arch in St. Louis.  Because we were fast-tracking, there was no time to stop and sight-see at all, so this was just a quick shot en route.


Crossing back through the time zones, it was again a challenge to figure out what time zone we were in.  Once we left Wyoming, we were back in Central; then crossing the Mississippi River into Illinois finally brought us back into Eastern Daylight Time.  It is hard to imagine what logic might have been used to construct the time zones across the country .... they certainly presented some confusion with us - and created a great deal of havoc with meetings that had been scheduled on my computer and phone.  I am still working to verify meeting times for upcoming dates!


When we weren't driving, we were resting.  Since we caught that heat wave crossing the country, Cutter was usually eager to seek out the shaded grassy areas at the rest stops.



I was so surprised to see oil wells in Illinois.  I guess I just always think of them in Texas and the western states.  I was happy to get a picture of one, though.  Usually by the time I would see one, we had already passed it.


I knew we were really getting back to civilization as we continued to hit more and more construction, along with those traffic jams.  The jams we had gotten used to out west were for buffalo crossings or sighting a grizzly!



I am still amazed at the number of farms we encountered.  The mid-west was just one farm after another.  At least by now (Indiana), we were starting to see some hills and trees.


Much of Kentucky was one huge horse farm after another.  I really felt like I needed to be singing 'My Old Kentucky Home' as we traveled through, but I figured Dick was already under enough stress trying to keep our rig on the road - and he did not need the added annoyance.

By the time we got further east in KY, it was clear we were entering Appalachian country.  I continue to be fascinated and amazed with the cool looking rock formations - whether as a result of roads carving through, erosion, shifting fault lines, or whatever. I found them beautiful!!

The other amazing landscape feature prominent in Kentucky and Virginia was the unbelievable amount of kudzu.  The first time I ever saw this fast growing vine was in Georgia.  Good grief - I had never seen anything like it - consuming trees, bushes, utility poles, fences and everything else that happened to be in its path.  As it envelopes its surroundings, it looks like creepy monsters rising out of the earth.  This shot provides a fair representation of how it takes over all!!


The very best thing about Virginia was the gas prices!  We have not seen anything under $3/gallon in so long that it shocked me when we were able to fill up at $2.94/gal!


We stayed in a great RV park in Ft. Chiswell, VA, that had the best 'doggie' area.  It was a lovely grassy area right next to a cow farm.  Well ... Cutter could not even imagine what these beasts were and his rump hair was 'on edge' each time he saw them.  The cows, on the other hand, were intrigued by Cutter and would run to the corner of the fence each time they saw Cutter come into view.  It was really funny to watch!

The last leg of our journey was a much anticipated visit with family in Raleigh.  My cousin Bob is the handsome chap on the right [Bob is an older cousin :-)]; his wife Barb and daughter Melissa on the left.  My son Travis and his girlfriend, Mina, are in the middle, with Melissa's son, Dylan, centering our group.  All live in Raleigh and it was wonderful to have some family time together.

So - we are finally back home in Oriental, NC!!  We have spent the past few days unloading and cleaning the RV before returning it to the storage yard close by.  The rest of our time has been spent trying to get caught up and settled back at home.  And the best???  Why just being in your own bed and enjoying the comforts of home.  Cutter has been catching up on all his naps and chasing lizzies on the back deck - he is really in heaven being at home!

Our trip has been wonderful and full of amazing experiences.  If you have never been out west, you may want to add it to your bucket list ..... the magnificent can only be appreciated in person.

So - that's it!!  Thanks for joining us on our western adventure.  We love traveling together and expect to do it again in the near future.

But, now our attention will be turned to the pending marriage of my son, Justin - and his beautiful bride-to-be, Elizabeth.  August 18th is the wedding date, and Elizabeth will be a wonderful addition to our family.  We are 'over-the-moon' with happiness for them - and for our family!  Life is good :-)














Sunday, June 24, 2012

Cody, Wyoming (June 24, 2012)

Welcome to Cody, WY - the home of the famous Buffalo Bill Cody!  What a fun town!  Just east of Yellowstone, we decided on this stop as a result of multiple recommendations from friends and folks we've met along the way.  While the entire city has become a tourist-meca, there is really a lot of great stuff to see here!

So Buffalo Bill was the trapper, soldier, hunter, scout and entertainer - probably most famous for his traveling Wild West Shows.  What an interesting character - influencing not only the entertainment industry, but also impacting relationships with Native Indians, developing western territories, and  fostering revolutionary projects such as hydroelectricity for irrigation.  At the turn of the 19th to the 20th century, Buffalo Bill was the most recognizable celebrity on earth!

The Buffalo Bill Historical Center, a grouping of 5 museums, targets Buffalo Bill himself, the Plains Indians, Natural History, Firearms and Western Art.  It is hands-down the most fabulous museum complex I have ever seen.  Thanks to my good friend Lois, we were sure to put this on our 'must see' itinerary...thanks Lois!!!  If you ever get to Wyoming, be sure to add Cody and this historical center to your list!!

Oh - before I forget, it just so happened that I was able to connect with good friend and colleague Alicia Rose.  She and her husband, Greg, were traveling in the same area and were alerted to try to hook up with us.  We just happened to end up in Cody during the same time, so we were able to spend yesterday (Saturday) together!!

There is so much to see and experience in the museums that it is ridiculous to try and even summarize here, but my favorite was the amazing Plains Indian Museum - chronicling the lives and legends of the Indian people in the west.  The numerous displays of their clothing, tools, weapons, and customs were just fabulous.

Of course, the tragic saga of the Indians attempts to preserve their native lands was a key piece in this historical display. And in spite of the efforts of many peace-seeking Indians and and American western citizens trying to negotiate a reasonable solution - greed, politics and corruption won the day.

Oh - remember those fancy yellow tour buses used in Yellowstone (see previous entry)?  Well, this is an early 20th century version of the same thing  ...  an actual carriage used to transport those early visitors through Yellowstone!!


Following the museum(s), we went to the famous Cody Rodeo.  First, however, we treated ourselves to dinner and a western music show at the Cody Cattle Company.  These 3 guys were terrific western musicians - some amazing guitar and fiddle!!  Alicia and I were doing some major clappin' and foot-stompin' - woo hoo!!!

As we entered the rodeo stadium, this poor old guy was available for photos.  For a price, you could sit on this bull and have your picture taken.  I think he was well beyond his prime and I sort of felt sorry for him - he looked so bored and sad! 


As side note: Hey Mom (Ginnie), remember that poor guy on the beach??? OMG! 


The rodeo was really something!  Bigger than the one we had seen in Jackson, but Alicia tells me smaller than the one in Reno, Nevada.  Well, whatever - it was really fun, and MAN .... what riders.  This event was the saddled bucking broncos.  I couldn't believe I got such a great shot!!


So, tomorrow (Monday), we begin our trek back east.  It has been a great trip, but we will be ready to get home.  Cutter is craving his bed and his life of luxury chasing lizzies on the deck.  I can't wait to have my laundry room back.  And Dick - well, he's already planning our next trip - probably not til 2014.


We will be fast-tracking back home and plan to arrive by July 1st.  We still have some fun planned along the way, so stay tuned and don't change that channel!!


Friday, June 22, 2012

Yellowstone: Special Edition (June 22, 2012)

For the past week, we have been in Yellowstone National Park.  What an amazing mixture of diverse natural environments!!  From mountains, forests and canyons to lush valleys, hot springs and high desert terrain....what an awesome display!  Wildlife roam freely, waterfalls are abundant and you can drive for days and days - probably weeks, and still not see it all.

Lodgepole pines predominate the tree species in the park.  I found them interesting because they grow so close together with long, tall straight trunks bare of branches til the top of the tree.  Native Indians used these tree trunks for their tipis and 'wickiups' (grass-matted domed huts used by some nomadic Indian tribes).

A surprising number of acres throughout the park were overflowing with dead trees -similar to those in this picture.  Some were clear remnants of fire, but many were not .... I guess just old, dead and dropped over trees!  The park leaves things 'au naturale,' so the fallen trees are everywhere.

Sagebrush remains the primary ground cover in the west.  Ever since we entered Oklahoma, sagebrush has been THE main terrain-fashion in each of the western states we have visited. I have learned that the famed 'tumbleweeds' are - in fact - dead sagebrush.  We have seen plenty tumbling in the winds!!!

The valleys are lush and beautiful.
They are a primary location where - on most any day - you can see the buffalo roam.



And, boy did we see buffalo .... or more properly 'bison.'  I bet we saw more than a thousand during the week we were there.  Sometimes in large herds, and sometimes just 2 or 3 hanging out.


And more than a few times, there would be just one wandering or relaxing close to the road!  This big guy was strolling right along the street line just munching away....only about 4-5 feet from the car.





You could usually tell where the bison had been hanging out.  Just look for the trees missing some bark - they use the tree bark  as sort of an emery board to rub off their shaggy winter coats as the temperatures warm.  In the above two shots, you can see these guys still have some rubbin' to do!



Of course, another clue to 'track' their presence was to look for buffalo 'chips.'  Watching where you walk is a good idea when stepping through the woods, in the valleys - or even along the roads!

The Roosevelt Arch welcomes visitors to the park at the North Entrance.  Yellowstone was the first national park in the United States created by an act of Congress in 1872. Teddy Roosevelt laid the cornerstone to the arch in 1903 declaring the park should be 'For the benefit and enjoyment of the people.'

The entire basin of Yellowstone is volcanic, with an active magma chamber deep in the earth maintaining the 'hotspot.'  Major eruptions hundreds of thousands of years ago created much of the terrain, combined with the glaciers that followed during the ice age.  Numerous earthquakes are still regularly part of each year, although most are never felt.


The resulting geyser basins, hot springs, sulfur caldrons, mudpots and other such geothermal features can be found throughout the park ..... and are ever-changing.  Steam vents and small hot springs can even be found along the shores of lakes, in valleys, next to forests - they pop up just about anywhere - and are not necessarily confined to collective basins.


This is the Grand Prismatic Hot Spring.  It is HUGE - the largest in the United States, and 3rd largest in the world.  The blue color of the water indicates the hottest temperatures (well above boiling) and the multi-color overflow is a combination of varied water temperatures and acid minerals.

This is the same overflow as it spreads out further over the crusty ground surface.  I thought the coloring and patterns were awesome - looking like an expensive painting to me !!  You can see the puffy white clouds reflecting on the surface.


This feature was located in the mudpot basin.  It was named the 'Dragon Head' - looks just like it was breathing fire!





The Old Faithful section is not to be missed!  In addition to an extensive and informative education center, the famous geyser is THE main attraction.




Old Faithful, of course, is the most famous geyser AND the most predictable - 'spouting' about every 92 minutes.  Times are posted for the next eruption (+/- 10 minutes) - and the predicted time was 'right on' for this shot.  There is a huge boardwalk surrounding the geyser, so there are multiple great viewpoints.





And....the absolutely gorgeous Old Faithful Inn. The interior is multiple vaulted stories of heavy logs with restaurants and lobbies and such on each floor - all visible from the main lobby.  I could not get a decent shot, but believe me - it was breathtaking!




So much so that we just had to take a break at their bar for lunch and a beer!  The bison burgers are amazingly delicious - like the greatest, most tender burger you have ever eaten.  We'll have to look for bison on the Oriental menu when we get home - but don't remember ever seeing that listed!!!


Oh ... and check out the Yellowstone tour buses that depart from the Old Faithful Inn!
Purty fancy ....

Probably the next most famous feature is the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.  The canyon, along with the upper and the lower falls, is just spectacular!



These are the upper falls cascading down into the canyon.  The Yellowstone River is huge and quite lengthy, fed from the very large Yellowstone Lake.  We saw LOTS of fishin' in those waters!




Yellowstone is SO huge that there is LOTS of driving to get to the many locations around the park.  Some driving is in the valleys where the temps are moderate, and some is in the mountains where the temps in the high elevations still maintain the remnants of snow - and pretty cold temps!


The extremely varied terrain was so interesting.  One moment, you were passing through incredible rocky formations....












And then around the corner, you were into a sloping valley with a drastically different landscape.

There were frequent examples of glacial boulders, some with trees growing right along side of the boulder.  The boulders were moved along by the glaciers; and as the ice melted over time, these huge rocks were left in the 'middle of the field,' so to speak.  It was a very interesting sight.



This is one of the more famous glacial boulders.  As a reference point, I should have asked Dick to stand in the picture ..... his head would have only reached about half way up.  But, I think he was off trying to capture a rare shot of a wolf - one that I wan unable to get.




You may be wondering about all the gas we must have used with the extensive driving throughout the park.  Our Prius was certainly challenged with efficiency performance - and, it certainly exceeded our expectations.  Note the average mpg at 66.6!  Once we extended our use of this tank, we leveled out at about 57 mpg - pretty awesome!  Of course, this made up for the mpg average for the RV - we averaged 6-7 mpg :-(


Another feature we noticed in our drives throughout the park were the number of trucks sporting these mega-bumpers!  Our mode was keeping our speed down to prevent wild animal collisions - and of course we have a small Prius. Maintaining higher speeds and protecting their vehicles seemed to be a predominate theme here for others.


The wandering buffalo was always an issue.  There was a day last week where we understand a huge herd decided to cross the road - holding up traffic for hours.  While we did not see the crossing, we did get tied up in the traffic jam for almost 2 hours!

The elk are actually more of an issue because they often emerge from the trees - causing a sudden appearance.  They also are frequent cruisers close along the roads. This shot was taken from my car window....this big bull elk is up close and personal!


Then there are the bears - most often seen at a distance.  These little guys are black bear cubs that Dick captured at great magnification.   We always carried our bear spray anywhere we went, but never saw any up close - this was a good thing!

So ... speaking of bears .... we took a day trip to Bozeman, Montana to see 'Brutus' the grizzly bear.  Brutus, and Casey Anderson (adventurer and feature reporter for NatGeoWild), have become a favorite of Dick's when watching the National Geographic channel.
This is Brutus - a 900 lb grizzly bear who was born in captivity and adopted as a pup by Casey Anderson,  when he (Brutus) was in danger of being put down b/c the owners could not take care of him.  To much history to get into on Brutus, but we clearly wanted to get a visit in w/ him on our trip.
Brutus now lives at Montana Grizzly Encounter in Bozeman, long with four other grizzlies.  These others were either rescued or born in the wild outside if the continental U.S..  The website:
www.grizzlyencounter.com 

This is a shot of Jake (rear) and Maggie (front).


Their newest addition is 'Lucy' and she is 18 months old.  Lucy is the only grizzly in their brood who was born in the wild - in Alaska.  She was abandoned and there was no luck in finding out what had happened to her mother.  Grizzly Encounter was luck enough to be able to acquire her.

So - here is one more shot of Brutus.  If you go on the website to read more about him, you will find that he is fully domesticated and very playful.  He was certainly performing for us, especially when he wandered into the pond and started playing.  He has that ornery 'twinkle in his eye' and easily captures the hearts of everyone he encounters!


And like most great guys - they need a strong woman to keep them in line.  This is Sheena - companion and 'better half' to Brutus.  Even though she is an 'older woman,' she keeps Brutus hopping to please her and make her life comfortable.  They were so cute - and hilarious - together!  Our trip to Montana Grizzly Encounter was definitely one of the highlights of our trip!!


OK - so you can rest easy now .... that's it for Yellowstone!  We actually left there yesterday and are now in Cody, Wyoming - home of the famous 'Buffalo Bill' Cody.  I will wait until Sunday to post our adventures in Cody - to give you time to get through the Yellowstone Special Edition :-)